Jump to Content

The Long Way Around - Feature from Issue #59 Sept-Oct 2005

North Mississippi Allstars

Hill country revueThe North Mississippi Allstars offer a joyous funeral march for old friends

On days when he had time, which was less and less often during the last ten years, Luther Dickinson would go out to see his friend Othar Turner. The Mississippi music veteran, who was 90 when Dickinson helped him record his first album, would break out some bootleg liquor and the two of them would pass a few hours.

“We’d sit around on his front porch and drink moonshine and jam,” Dickinson recalls. “And when he got inspired, he’d start singing.”

Dickinson was speaking by phone from Oregon, where his band, the North Mississippi Allstars, was touring with John Hiatt. But even from that distance, it was hard to miss the wistfulness in his voice. Sometimes on those afternoons, Dickinson would apologize to Turner for the long gap since his last visit. With the Allstars playing upwards of 180 shows a year, either on their own or with any number of extracurricular projects, time could easily get away from him. But Turner saw no need for apologies.

“He’d say, ‘You wanted to be in it,’” Dickinson says. “‘Well, now you in it. What you want now? To be out of it?’”

Evidently not. As Dickinson and his bandmates — his brother, Cody, and bassist Chris Chew — enter their second decade together, the North Mississippi Allstars are more in it than ever. Between a reunion at this year’s Bonnaroo festival with their supergroup alter-ego the Word (the Allstars plus Robert Randolph and John Medeski), recording and then touring with Hiatt, and preparing for the release of their fourth studio album, the trio seems barely to pause for breath.

But that new album, Electric Blue Watermelon, turns out to be something of a pause in itself. Although it begins with a jubilant run through Charley Patton’s “Mississippi Bollweevil” and in places is as rambunctious as anything the band has done, it has a deliberately elegiac tenor.

“It’s just kind of a reflective record about growing up in such a wonderful time and place, but having that just being gone,” Dickinson says.

At 32, Dickinson might seem a little young to be making a record about the way things used to be. But from the beginning the Allstars have had an unusually direct grounding in traditions many generations older than themselves, and they have already started to see some of those places and people disappear.

Luther and Cody were teenage punk rockers when their father, veteran Memphis producer, musician and scenester Jim Dickinson, discovered (along with the rest of the world) the North Mississippi hill country blues scene. As the Fat Possum record label was bringing unreconstructed rural shouters and moaners such as R.L. Burnside and Paul “Wine” Jones to an international audience, the Dickinsons were hanging out at Junior Kimbrough’s juke joint and getting a firsthand primer from guys who had been playing the music as long as anyone alive.

Among the singular talents in that outpost of the blues diaspora was Turner, who led the last surviving hill country fife and drum band. Tooting bluesy riffs on a hollowed-out sugar cane flute over the rackety battery of a small drum corps (generally composed of assorted children, grandchildren and cousins), Turner played spirited party music that was part march and part dance. The Dickinsons became close friends, and in 1998 Luther produced the first album by Turner’s Rising Star Fife And Drum Band, Everybody’s Hollerin’ Goat.

The next year, Luther pulled together a group of friends, associates and guest musicians from West Africa to back Othar on the follow-up, From Senegal To Senotobia. Like Taj Mahal’s collaborations with the kora player Toumani Diabate, that album sought to connect African and African-American traditions, giving new backdrops to Turner’s skeletal melodies. It was an adventurous project for a nonagenarian, and also a valedictory one. Turner died a few years later, in February 2003.

At that time, the Allstars had just finished their third album, Polaris, which had taken some long strides away from the rootsy rock of their first two releases. Adding R.L. Burnside’s son Duwayne on second guitar and producing themselves, they put together something both wider-ranging and more radio-ready than they had before. The album’s hodge-podge of styles revealed some previously untapped influences (power-pop, psychedelia, hip-hop), all of which made sense given the Dickinsons’ Memphis roots and their father’s own eclectic career. But while Luther speaks fondly of Polaris, he says Turner’s death served as something of a call from home.

“That just shocked me,” he says. “And you know, we had just made this experimental rock ‘n’ roll record, and it just made me rethink who I was and what I should be doing.”

The first answer to that question came with the band’s 2004 performance at Bonnaroo. Rather than take the stage on their own, they brought along something called the Hill Country Revue, including Jim Dickinson, several generations of Burnsides, Widespread Panic keyboardist JoJo Herman, Chris Robinson of the Black Crowes, and the Rising Star band (now led by Turner’s grandchildren). Captured on a live album released later that year, the set was hard-edged southern boogie, drawn heavily from the R.L. Burnside songbook.

If that performance was a raucous family reunion, Electric Blue Watermelon is more like a wake — still high-spirited, but with a mournful bent. From the Dirty South rap chant that opens “No Mo” (“It ain’t the same no mo”) to a low-swinging rendition of Odetta’s “Deep Blue Sea”, many of the songs are laments for things that have passed.

The album also re-teamed the Allstars, pared back to a trio, with Luther and Cody’s father, who had previously produced their second album, Phantom 51, as well as some early sessions. (Luther and Cody also played on Jim’s 2002 album Free Beer Tomorrow, his first solo release in three decades.) Luther says it was Jim’s idea that the new album should have the feel of a New Orleans funeral parade, a party on the way to the graveyard.

Enjoy the ND archives? Consider making a donation. Advertising helps defray our basic expenses, but doesn’t touch the over $150,000 invested to get this content online. Just $10 (or more!) from 15,000 of our fans and we will reach our goal. Thanks for your support.

Or send a check to: No Depression, PO Box 31332, Seattle, WA 98103

Discuss

Did you enjoy this article? Start a discussion about it, or find out what others are saying in the No Depression Community forum.

Join the Discussion »

Find out what's going on in roots music. Share concert photos and videos, learn about new artists, blog about the music you love.

Join the No Depression Community »

Originally Featured in Issue #59 Sept-Oct 2005

Buy our history before it’s gone!

Each issue is artfully designed and packed full of great photos that you don‘t get online. Visit the No Depression store to own a piece of history.

Visit the No Depression Store »


From the Blogs

  • The Last Time I Saw Gram Parsons
    By Bill Conrad (His Prep School Pal)

 Summer of 1969, I was in London when I saw a flyer advertising the Byrds at Royal Albert Hall. Melody Maker, the local music news, suggested that a few Beatles and Stones might attend. That was incentive enough for me.
  The Byrds took the stage and launched into "Turn, Turn, Turn."  Other than band leader Rog […]
  • Davina and the Vagabonds at Newcastle Cluny II
    The Cluny, Newcastle Thursday 17th May 2012 Alan Harrison One of my greatest pleasures is discovering new music any of its shapes and forms and tonight was a bit of a revelation as I had only ventured out of the house because there was nothing on TV. As the support act finished there were only about 30 people scattered around The Cluny and perhaps 75 were sc […]
  • Lee Ann Womack Helps Houston's Homeless
    As founder and president of Healthcare for the Homeless -- Houston (HHH), Dr. David Buck (left with country star Lee Ann Womack at First Lady's Luncheon, Washington, D.C) is a busy man. So busy, in fact, he was taken aback when his office got a voice message from U.S. Representative Gene Green's wife Helen saying that she would like Dr. Buck to att […]
  • TPR#88 Addam Scott - Interview and Music
    On episode 88 of the Taproot Music Show, Addam Scott, the musician, not the actor, talks to Calvin about his latest CD, San Diablo. He discusses the concept of conflict that runs through the CD and how he likes ““I like to move forward that contradiction and show the best of who we are as people and the worst of who we are as people.” He discusses his musica […]
  • Album Review: Denison Witmer - The Ones Who Wait
    I’m going to confess that despite his fifteen year career in music,  I only discovered Asthmatic Kitty artist Denison Witmer last month when his ninth and latest CD The Ones Who Wait landed on my doormat, writes Neonfiller.com's Joe Lepper. Listening to the album I can see why he has been the anonymous bridesmaid but never the bride for so long. He can […]
  • Guest Blog: Roots Music in Portland, Maine
    
Hearth Music Guest Blog: Roots Music 
in Portland, ME
by Melissa Rae Cohen We've got a special guest blog today from travel writer Melissa Rae Cohen, writing all the way from Portland, Maine about the great roots music in her hometown! I grew up in a very musical environment. My father and grandfather used to sit… […]

Shop Amazon by clicking through this logo to support NoDepression.com. We get a percentage of every purchase you make!


Subscribe To the No Depression Newsletter

Subscribe to the No Depression Newsletter